A Rebuttal to all of the “This place where I’m traveling is so awesome” Posts

I’m not currently in the middle of traveling anywhere. I’m at home. Normally this would really depress me, but my home situation is actually really adorable right now (just to give you an idea: I am currently sitting on my orange velvet couch. Yes.). I have a wonderful roommate and really high ceilings and bright turquoise dining room chairs that we painted all by ourselves (I painted one, Allison painted three). We have hardwood floors and one of those ladder bookcases and a little herb garden on our roof (Allison is growing herbs; I am growing mint for mojitos).

(artsy Instagram collage courtesy of Allison)

We thrifted a butcher’s block that seems to inspire somewhat passive-aggressive bouts of jealousy in anyone who sees it (We do not take offense. We encourage and nurture these feelings. We gloat.). Our shower curtain features a map of California — which is where we both grew up — and has taught us that our home state includes such humorously named cities as Chubbuck, Fort Dick, and my personal favorite, Likely.

(Chowchilla isn’t bad, either)

We still need more art to decorate the walls, but we do have a random terracotta bowl decorated with a neon-colored village scene that we plan to hang somewhere (the cashier at the thrift store stared in appreciation for a moment before deeming it “art” and giving us the 50% discount they were having on art pieces that day). We are the proud parents of a family of succulents purchased at Home Depot during that random Chicago heat spell in March.

Allison frequently bakes me delicious things that involve a lot of chocolate and/or M&Ms as well as coconut-something, and in return I provide her with… always buying us the newest issue of Real Simple?

(Awesome art poster courtesy of my father/our garage)

Despite playing host to a rampant squirrel population that only seems to increase in size by the day, our neighborhood is very charming and its houses all come outfitted with huge, midwestern porches and cute little gardens that run from the front steps to the back yard. Kids ride around on their bikes; hipsters and elders alike spend evenings sitting in lawn chairs drinking lemonade, or alcohol, or maybe both (who am I to judge?).

The farmers’ markets are going to be starting up soon, and Allison and I will be buying bikes so that we can ride to said markets, and maybe also the French bakery a few blocks away on nights when we’re feeling particularly ambitious. Bike baskets will be involved. I realize this might us push us over to the next level of “adorable,” and I’m willing to take that risk.

(Please note my plaster Greek column in the corner.)

God knows I will be the first person to brag about the perks of traveling, the gorgeous view out my hostel window, or the fact that I have gotten to see the Woman of Willendorf in Vienna, in person, twice. God also knows that I spend hours of my day staring at maps (partly due to my job) and reading through blog post upon blog post about all of the amazing places that everyone else is off exploring right now. I love traveling. I love reading about it. I will always feel jealous when someone else gets to be off exploring a new place that I haven’t seen yet.

But you know what, other travel bloggers? My home situation is pretty great right now, too. And I think you should all be as jealous of me as I am of you. I bet your hostel doesn’t have a giant orange velvet couch or a miniature herb garden on the roof (if it does, please don’t tell me. At least give me the couch on this one, guys).  Sure, you may be living it up in the apartment you’re reviewing for Roomorama, right in the city center of my favorite European town; or maybe you’re hanging out with everyone at the latest travel blogger conference (really jealous of all of your Instagram photos, by the way); or maybe you’re like my editor Brendan at Vagabundo Magazine and you decide to flee to Rome on a whim one afternoon. But you know what?

I am about to take a bath surrounded by my own candles in my own freshly-scrubbed bathtub while studiously analyzing my California shower curtain and sipping the chai tea I just made in my own kitchen, in my own mug, listening to my own music as loudly as I want (despite fearing judgment from my downstairs neighbors), or maybe watching something from my Gwyneth Paltrow queue on Netflix, which probably doesn’t work in whichever country you’re in. And I could not be happier or less jealous.

Vintage Travel Photo [Murder?] Mystery

During my time as one of the Communications Strategies interns at the hostel in downtown Chicago, I’ve gotten to partake in something I’ve wanted to experience ever since my love affair with The X-Files began: solving a mystery with evidence that I’ve analyzed for hours in a tiny room using an old-fashioned slide projector.

Helen Pomerance was a member of the committee that worked to promote hostelling in the United States in its early stages, during the 1950s-70s. She led young travelers on several excursions by both bike and van across all parts of Europe, Hawaii, Israel, Japan, and elsewhere. This would make for an impressive story without any pictures — but, luckily for us, Helen took pictures. Hundreds of them. And they were all sitting in boxes, as slides, in the stockroom that has served as my office at the hostel.

I’d noticed the boxes of slides a few days before my supervisor approached me about going through them. It’s hard to look at a stack of boxes labeled “1950,” “1953,” “1971,” “1967,” every afternoon and not wonder about what someone could have been trying to archive.

Flipping through these slides, hundreds of slides, one by one, on a makeshift poster-board screen that we had Macgyvered together with a stack of books on either side, was as satisfying as I had imagined it would be. It took several days, and at certain points my eyes would start to hurt, but I took that to mean that I was executing this project with the right amount of fervor and determination. I like to think that Mulder and Scully would have been impressed, [albeit potentially bored by the lack of murder and aliens].

The mystery aspect came into play as we were trying to figure out where exactly many of these pictures were taken, what was happening in certain scenarios, and who a lot of the people were. Helen annotated a few of them, and I found a brief outline that either she or someone else had typed up; the outline briefly listed the countries she visited during certain years, but this still left us with the task of fitting the pictures into these countries and years based only on the subject matter in each picture.

Sometimes this was fun — I would recognize a French word in one picture and add that slide to the France pile. Or I would see a Swiss flag in the background, or I would recognize a building in Spain that I had visited only a month earlier. But some of them were really frustrating — these pictures were gorgeous and some of the candid pictures were so funny, but I had absolutely no idea where or why they were taken, or in what context, or if anyone else had ever looked through them and appreciated them as much as I had.

I’m still working with the pictures, trying to sort through them on the hostel’s Flickr account and choosing a few for the Facebook page, and I love some of them too much not to share here:

Right?

travel inspirations (think Thelma and Louise…but with less murder)

Generally I’m not much of a TAG YOU’RE IT person — the whole concept of “tag” stressed me out a lot as a kid. It took a lot of things I couldn’t really do and forced me to perform them all at one time — running, hitting people, strategizing, interacting with my peers on a basic social level. I didn’t even like having to run after people to tag them out during my brief stint as a second baseman in 4th grade (it only took my coach a few games to figure that out, and then I was sentenced to right field).

However, Caroline of Caroline in the City has tagged me in a post she wrote about her travel inspirations, meaning she wants to hear what I have to say on the subject. Since I can participate in this form of tag while simultaneously drinking wine on my couch and not having to run around in anyone’s backyard, I’m game.

Really, though, the only image that came to mind when I thought about what inspires me to travel was this:

Being badass. If I could be as badass doing anything as Thelma and Louise were during their awesome road trip (you call it fleeing a crime scene, I call it an awesome road trip), all of my dreams would be fulfilled.

The way I described my childhood a few sentences ago might have alerted you to something — I have never really been badass in any context. I had my nose pierced for about 2 years, which was a nice attempt, and I do have a tattoo (although the word “laugh” written in my own handwriting across my lower abdomen doesn’t really conjure up any images of  danger or mystery). And one time I sort of got mugged?

I’m not really any more badass when I’m traveling than I am in real life*, but when I’m traveling it’s much easier to trick myself into believing that I am badass. When I am traveling alone and I manage to get myself to a new country, find the bus to my hostel, get myself a decent meal, locate everything I want to see in that country and then actually get myself there, take a few pictures, and make it home in one piece, I think to myself, “Ok, you’re impressive.” Things like feeding yourself and making sure you get to your bed at the end of the night are basic concepts that most of us have mastered long before we’re even living on our own, but sometimes, let’s be honest, they just take so much effort. When you can not only perform these tasks by yourself, but perform them well (i.e. using the hostel kitchen to cook yourself an actual meal rather than one of the packs of Ramen you brought from home, which is just cheating), and perform them well in a country where you can’t understand what anyone is saying to you, and when you’ve just spent the entire day getting lost in a new place and you’re so tired you can barely stand, let alone operate a European stove — when you can do that, I think you deserve to be called a badass.

On top of that, weird things happen when you’re traveling. Weird things happen in real life*, too, but they don’t have the glamour of traveling or the unfamiliar setting to back them up. When they happen in real life, these things are just funny stories to tell over dinner or manipulate into a really good Facebook status. When weird things happen during your travels, they are suddenly adventure stories. When you play them back in your head for years and years to come, you’ve assigned starring roles: you as the protagonist, possibly a cute foreign guy as the love interest, possibly a gold-toothed French man as the bad guy (the characters can vary depending on the genre of your particular adventure. Liam Neeson usually stars in all of mine.). There’s usually a soundtrack you’ve chosen. You’ve carefully selected each adjective and analyzed the plot structure.

One time I got robbed in France (money stolen from my makeup bag so no real struggle or badass triumph was involved, just a lot of frantic sobbing and way less souvenirs). I’ve been to a massive rave on a French beach, I stayed on a boat along the coast of Gibraltar, I took a few writing lessons from a BBC journalist in Scotland, I went to the self-proclaimed “Big Lebowski Bar” in Dresden, I participated in a home swap with a French family from Normandy (they got Boyf’s house, we got their massive chateau in the middle of the gorgeous French countryside, complete with a horse ranch, silo for brewing cider, and an impressive fossil display in the living room), I accidentally took pictures of Sandra Cho in Saint Tropez when Grey’s Anatomy was still respected, and I got to see the Woman of Willendorf in person not once, but TWICE IN MY LIFETIME (possibly the only legitimately badass thing on this list).

None of that is particularly impressive in the grand scheme of things — I have never gone sky-diving, I have never been in a ship wreck, I have never gotten seriously injured and made a triumphant recovery in a foreign hospital, I’ve never done anything particularly influential along the lines of aiding humanity in any way, and I know that. I’m working up to it. Still, each of those little stories makes me feel good about myself. I am tickled to the point of using the word “tickled” when I announce I’m about to go off traveling alone for a certain period of time and the first thing someone asks me is, “Aren’t you scared?”  This makes me believe that I am doing something monumentally impressive and dangerous, when really it’s just slightly impressive when compared to most other things I do and dangerous in the sense that I am always on the brink of getting irreversibly lost.

I know that none of us really had much faith in my potential for badassery when we saw what I did with my softball career all those years ago. The most I had going for me at that point (aside from my ability to look adorable in right field) was the fact that the other teams’ pitchers always accidentally hit me with the ball, which always allowed me to take a base, which made me a very valuable lead hitter. I sort of wish I could go back to right field, hand my nine-year-old self some ice for whatever part of her body the pitch had hit that time, and tell her that she probably won’t ever accomplish the level of badassery she dreams about during the really slow innings, but that she will get to travel to dozens of really cool places all by herself when she grows up — and that’ll at least get her closer.

 

*I did not mean to refer to those in-between phases of my travels that I spend at home as “real life” in this post…twice. Will need to psychoanalyze this in a future post, probably.

books & travel

The Old Man and the Sea
Ernest Hemingway

“I may not be as strong as I think,” the old man said, “but I know many tricks and I have resolution.”

“But are you strong enough now for a truly big fish?”

“I think so. And there are many tricks.”

More Books & Travel:
Excerpts from “Your Feet,” by Pablo Neruda
Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close, by Jonathan Safron Foer
The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, by Robert Louis Stevenson

*pictures from Amsterdam, 2009

How To Succeed in Bus Riding Across Europe (…if I add “Without Really Trying,” will Daniel Radcliffe dance for me?)

Pre-Travel
From your childhood on, you will equate buses with freedom, because buses will mean one thing, and one thing only: field trips. School buses are novelties when you’re growing up, seeing as your parents drive you to school every day. The elusive “school bus” is something that appears only on television and occasionally the freeway during rush hour. It is the starring vehicle in one of your favorite shows to watch during science class: The Magic School Bus. Whenever field trips roll around once or twice a year, the bus ride will be as fun for you as the actual field trip will be (no seat belts! Playing MASH the whole way there! Laughing at whoever had to sit up front with the teachers! Am I right?).* As you grow up, you will never quite become an expert in bus-riding, but no one will ever be able to doubt your enthusiasm. And just as you will gain years of experience crying in various countries across Europe, so too will you become at least reasonably seasoned in the art of the European bus ride.

Paris
When you’re seventeen and heading off to Europe for the first time, you’re probably going to end up in one of the stereotypical first-time-to-Europe cities, like Paris. Rome will also work for this scenario. You might also make this journey as part of a student ambassador group, which sounds important but actually just means you get to hang out with a bunch of kids your age from California. You will bond with this group of people each day during your bus rides around the city — sometimes you will all be sleeping (particularly that morning when the guides make you wake up at 5am to “beat the Paris traffic” (don’t try to get the better of anything or anyone in France, ever). Sometimes you will use this bus as a changing room after you’re all caught in a torrential downpour in a cemetery. But no matter what else happens, one thing is guaranteed: your first foray into the world of European bus rides will be documented for years to come in a video you made by simply holding the camera up to the bus window and pressing play; a video that consists of absolutely nothing except three straight minutes of quaint little storefronts passing by as the bus slowly makes its way out to Versailles.

Italy
This is the fancy tour bus portion of the saga. This bus is large, comfortable, expensive, and air-conditioned — unbeknownst to you, this bus is already more impressive than most of the apartments you will inhabit throughout college and beyond, possibly ever. The driver, one of the first and most adorable Italian people you have ever seen, handles all of the luggage and gives each lady a hand as she descends the steep bus steps. He handles the windy Italian roads with more grace than you thought existed in a single human, and when the roads become too narrow for multiple vehicles, he hops out into the street and directs traffic as if that’s a normal thing to do when you’re on your way to the Vatican. This bus seems almost too large for the little Italian roads you travel, almost too large for anywhere.

Riviera
Your next experience with buses takes you back to the days of field trips. You are studying art on the French Riviera, and twice a week your class makes an excursion to one of the many museums scattered along the Mediterranean coast. These bus rides take you along the ocean, through little city streets, and up into the hills where it almost seems like cars should be forbidden. The views are panoramic and gorgeous to a level that is almost unfair — you become suspicious about the possibility of photoshopping things in real life. These bus rides have soundtracks, songs that you listen to on your headphones while you count the number of topless people you see on the beach, playlists that you will avoid upon returning home because listening to them will make you cry in a way that is both pathetic and understandable.

Hungary
The first time you board a bus in Hungary, you will be instructed not to pay the bus fare, because “they almost never check.” Your next experience on the bus is legal but traumatizing — it is two in the morning, you and your companions are lost, and you are not sure whether you need to take the bus north or south. When a bus appears, you and your sister board to ask for directions. The bus driver glances at you, doesn’t offer any help, and drives away. Your boyfriend is left standing alone on a dark road that none of you can even locate on a map. You are calm at first, trying to loosen the door handle, but the driver refuses to open the doors, let alone stop for a second to let you out. You start shrieking hysterically, grabbing at the doors and turning around to see if anyone on the bus is willing to help you, but they all just stare as if you’re absolutely insane, and you suddenly realize that you are the token insane person on this bus, and you are American, which somehow makes you feel even worse.

Scotland
The bus tour for the Scottish highlands leaves the hostel at about 6:15 in the morning, and you and your fellow interns are all regretting the drinks you’d finished about 5 hours earlier. You try to keep each other alert, jotting down notes and taking a few pictures every now and then. There is a Scottish host who speaks for most of the 9-10 hour ride, and you are interested in everything that he says (as well as his kilt) but you’re certain you’ll only be able to remember about an eighth of it. It rains every five minutes or so, as it does in Scotland. You pay special attention to talk of the clans and some guy who was undefeatable but then got a cut on his finger and died of blood poisoning or something (why didn’t you write his name down, you idiot?). There will be a stop for whiskey along the way (it’s as if they know you), as well as a stop for a famous cow named Hamish (you might accidentally steal a keychain with his face on it, long story) and the scenery will be the eeriest, greenest, most perfect version of Scotland you could have ever imagined. And no, sadly, you won’t get to see Nessie.

Dublin
You’ve always seen those bright red Hop-On, Hop-Off sightseeing buses, and you’ve always considered them to be super touristy and a waste of money that could be spent on other things, like boats in Gibraltar. But then, one day, you arrive in Dublin and your feet are so blistered and you are so tired and you feel so lonely that you actually physically cannot walk around. You buy a ticket for one of these buses and ride it around Dublin for almost a whole day — over and over again, all the way around the same circle, until you’ve almost memorized the English commentary and translated some of the French. You stop off at one point to duck into a bookstore to grab a copy of Ulysses and a coffee, and then you spend much of the next day reading on the bus. On this bus you see so many of the tourists you try to avoid — the loud ones, the clueless ones, the ones whose faces you can’t even see because they’re buried so deep in a guidebook. But you also see travelers to whom you can more easily relate — people who are quieter, eager, genuinely interested in the city and so clearly excited to explore. This gives you time to think about the traveler, not so much the traveling. You see only parts of Dublin, but you see more types of people than you have ever come across at any other point in your life.

Portugal-Spain
You will watch 3 of your fellow hostelmates prepare food for this bus ride as if it is the apocalypse — you, on the other hand, are still in the not-spending-money-on-unimportant-things-like-food phase of this eurotrip, and so you pack only a banana. The banana will proceed to get smeared all over everything in your bag as well as (somewhat mysteriously) your only pair of pants. As the four of you share some of the four-course meal the others packed, you argue about how long this trip is supposed to take. Four hours, five hours, six hours, and seven hours end up being the final guesses. The trip takes just over three. For some reason you decide it is safe to show your awful passport picture to these friends, and the picture becomes a joke that they will tease you about for the remainder of the time that you know them, presumably. You will teach them all that game from Inglorious Basterds, and you’ll all get Katy Perry stuck in your head for the remainder of the day, as at least 5 of her songs come up on the bus’s playlist. This is one of the first times you’ve wanted to pay more attention to the people inside the bus with you than the scenery outside the bus windows — and note to self: you’ll wish you had taken at least one picture.

*I’m sort of scared that people I went to elementary school with will read this and not agree with me at all, and just be like, “Wow, I never knew how stoked she was on buses that whole time…literally no one else felt that way.”