jackie travels

Jackie Does (or will do, at some point) Los Angeles

I never really gave this city a chance when I was growing up here. “It’s a monster,” I always tell people whenever they ask me to describe it. I do maintain that — Los Angeles is a unique, sprawling, overwhelming, occasionally irritating monster — but, like any villain ought to, it’s also got some sass.

I hate to say this, I hate it, I HATE it, because it’s the thing that everyone always says first and it’s such a cliche — but guys, the weather. Or lack thereof, really. I mean, Jesus:

Los Angeles palm trees

Driving home from work early on Fridays. Sorry.

The weather makes it so easy to do things. You can go outside without having to think twice about whether or not you remembered to put on your wool socks, and you never have to shovel your car out of anything while your fingers slowly go numb, knuckle by knuckle. It’s so easy to move in this city, provided you avoid certain stretches of freeway during rush hour. It’s so easy to be outside, or to move from one indoor place to the next, or to get anywhere once you accept that it will take you 45 minutes in current traffic to do so.

I think one of the reasons I hated Los Angeles so much when I was younger (aside from the fact that I was a brat) is that I didn’t really experience all that much of it when I was growing up. Having convinced myself that parts of the city were “unsafe” (I mean, I guess there are unsafe parts) or “too touristy” (again, pretty valid) or “too far away” (so much traffic, always), I operated almost entirely in this little bubble I’d created for myself, one that didn’t really encourage any exploration, danger, or discomfort.

melrose avenue

Shopping after I get off work early on Fridays. Sorry.

But then again, you could say the exact same things about Chicago — overall, it’s a much more dangerous city than Los Angeles, and it has its share of traffic and touristy draws — but that didn’t stop me from exploring the city and giving everything a chance. Probably because I’m so worldly and adult now.

Since I moved back here almost two months ago, I’ve really enjoyed getting to know my favorite parts of Los Angeles again and exploring all of the other parts for the first time. I’ve spent hours on unfamiliar freeways and even ridden the metro once (who knew it actually covered a decent amount of ground? “Decent” being a generous term, but still), and I’ve been to new bars and restaurants, and even a movie screening.

los angeles architecture

Cue Temper Trap from that scene in “500 Days of Summer” when he’s showing her the architecture. Sorry.

I’m not much of a believer in bucket lists, so that isn’t what I want to call this — but I have developed a list of things I’ve never done in Los Angeles that I want to try. I started this list shortly after moving back, and I’ve already accomplished a few of these goals. I’m leaving them on the list now as I post it because a.) I enjoy using the cross-out-a-word feature, and b.) I’m proud of my progress.

Los Angeles Delights

Drink on a rooftop bar

Ride the metro

Hang out at the various piers (Manhattan Beach)

Hang out at Griffith Park Observatory

Do a touristy bus tour. Bonus points for using a fake accent. Bonus points for using a fake accent that actually sounds like a real accent, unlike most of your fake accent attempts*.

See a celebrity eating brunch

Do the beaches

Take a dancing class (in honor of your new [not so]guilty pleasure: Dancing with the Stars)

Visit the Central Library downtown with every free second of downtime that you have

Drive your dad’s convertible along PCH

Visit Joshua Tree

Beach camping in Malibu

Attend street events/festivals (Grilled Cheese Fest: check. St. Patrick’s Day street festival: check.)

Buy art from a local artist

Get a tattoo (not really, Mom)**

Visit The Last Bookstore

DODGER DOGS

Museums that you haven’t been to yet (or haven’t seen in a while)

Movies at the Hollywood Forever cemetery 

Taco restaurant that Jason Segel’s character from I Love You Man proclaims is the best taco in LA (Jenn-approved)

Go see comedy shows

Watch a live taping of a TV show

Roller Derby!

Stage a taste test of all the classic hole-in-the-wall doughnut shops 

hollywood

Extremely hipster picture of somewhere in/near Hollywood. Genuinely sorry.

Ok fine, I apparently haven’t done as much as I thought I did. I’ve ridden the metro. It’s a start.

 

*generally, at a certain point in any given bucket list, I begin to address myself directly.
**Really, guys.

 

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Jackie Makes Friends on the Internet

I am probably 20% social and 80% hermit. Many of my closest friends are people I’ve known since I was very young, and the others are mostly from college (where I was forced to make new friends since none of my old ones followed me to UC Davis, to their great detriment). The Internet was made for people like me, people who enjoy the company of others in relatively small doses, who feel most comfortable when they can end a conversation as easily as they can close a browser window.

uc davis graduation

College friends.

Ever since my 12 or 13 year old self discovered e-mail and instant messaging, I’ve made several friends on the Internet. Some of these people are still my friends, some have become strangers again, some I’ve met in person once or twice, and some I still hear from every once in a while. All of the Internet friends I’ve made recently have been bloggers.

There is Sarah, who was probably my first blogger friend. Either she or I tweeted something about David Duchovny, I think, and we’ve been tweeting love notes ever since. The fact that we both got hired on at Vagabundo a few months after our meeting was pure coincidence (although it smells suspiciously of Fate to me, personally.)

Traveling friends.

Much of the Vagabundo staff have become my good friends. I met up with Ash and Luis in Mexico last November, and we’ve been harassing each other on Facebook chat ever since. Colleen is my fellow cat lady and you can blame her entirely for encouraging the Instagrams of my furry little sidekick. Audrey is a backpacking extraordinaire who shares my [impeccable] taste in adorable teal shoes. Jenn is my most recent friend — aside from being an incredible writer, she also happens to send the most heartfelt, amusing, will-cheer-you-up-in-two-seconds-flat e-mails.

There are the ladies I don’t speak with that often but whose blogs I always read, and I feel like I’ve come to know them simply because they are such vivid, adept writers: Megan, Daryl, Brenna, Caroline, and George. There are many other bloggers I admire and interact with, and this is just a very short list of them. I’ll probably do a round two blog post in the future to mention even more of them. (If you are reading this and I’ve forgotten you, please yell at me in the comments. Whenever I do a list of people like this, I always inevitably forget someone. I am the worst.)

Internet friends.

These friendships are unique because they rely almost entirely on conversation. I can’t call any of them up for a cup of coffee or a drink after work. I can’t invite them over to watch Mad Men with me on Sundays, or convince one of them that they should cook me something delicious and extravagant for dinner one night, just because. Sometimes I can’t even talk to a few of a them at certain times of day, depending on the time difference.

I’m not distinguishing them here because they are in any way better than my “real life” friends, the ones with whom I do watch Mad Men and get drinks and laugh until we are crying during a game of Taboo. These real-life friends are, as the ultimate girlfriend Carrie Bradshaw so accurately puts it, “my family… my insides,” and being reunited with many of them in Los Angeles has been a much needed relief.

“Real life” friends.

But I do have a special love for my Internet friends, and for the Internet in general. As someone who has been moving around a lot for the past couple years, the Internet has been my primary means of keeping in touch. Sometimes I still feel weird when I talk about my Internet friends, just like I know some people still feel weird when they say that they met someone they’re dating on the Internet. It’s definitely come a long way since the times when people assumed that everyone you met online was a serial killer (The X-Files has a great episode about this, being the connoisseur of pop culture that it was), but sometimes there’s still a little weirdness surrounding Internet relationships.

Then again, maybe that’s why I love these people. I love the weird. I get the weird.

“Surreal life” friends.

If there’s one thing that my Central America trip with B has taught me, it’s that maybe certain friendships can only work under specific circumstances, the same way that certain writers can only write poetry or certain artists can only work in pastel. Would I be friends with any of these people if we’d met in “real life” rather than on the Internet? Would our relationships look entirely different if the circumstances were different, or is the sign of a true friendship when you can get along with someone anytime, anywhere, online, and over lunch?

I mean, all of these Internet friends are pretty cool. Our conversations alone lead me to believe that I would probably love them anytime, anywhere, online, and over lunch.

But God Bless the Internet for bringing me to them, anyway.

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Jackie and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Ride

durango narrow gauge railroad

I rode my first train when I was twenty one, traveling from Cannes to Paris via Nice. I had barely slept the night before — a good friend, one very absorbing chat, and a large bottle of champagne had kept me awake about four hours longer than I should have been — but I refused to sleep on the train. Exhausted though I was, this was my first European train ride, and I would be damned if I was going to miss it.

I spent that whole ride leaning face-first against the window listening to music, too tired to take any pictures but too stubborn to close my eyes.

Almost four years later and I still think trains are the most romantic form of transport. I realize that this is partially because I grew up in a country that is probably too large to ever have an efficient cross-country railway service (and we always want what we can’t have), and also partially due to the fact that I’ve never ridden a train in a non-western country (so I’ve still only seen a very small portion of the world’s railway systems).

I’d always thought that scenic trains were a strictly European thing, but shortly before my recent road trip my dad told me about the Narrow Gauge Railroad in Durango, Colorado. It took me a maximum of about three seconds to decide that this railroad was something that I, as a loyal nerd of all things train-tastic, needed to experience.

As it turns out, a very specific demographic within the realm of train nerds (the 55-years-old-and-over demographic) decided that they needed to experience this train ride, too.

So there we were, just me and America’s finest retirees, headed off into the mountains at 9am on a Thursday via the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

durango coloradodurango and silverton narrow gauge railroaddurango and silverton narrow gauge railroaddurango and silverton narrow gauge railroaddurango and silverton narrow gauge railroaddurango and silverton narrow gauge railroad

Pretty cool, right? There’s a picture of myself that I could have posted — there were two elderly couples sitting next to me who claimed I was “so adorable!” and one of the women insisted on taking my picture — but I’d been on the road traversing blizzards by myself for a few days at this point, so in the picture I look kind of bewildered and unkempt. At least, more so than usual.

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Cleveland in my Heart

There are certain trips you hope you never have to take. My parents leave this morning on one of those trips. A few days ago my dad’s younger brother suffered from a stroke and, to our extreme sadness, he never woke up. My parents will be spending time with my dad’s family in Cleveland, Ohio while I stay behind to watch the house and feed my cat.

I wish a lot of different things. I wish I could go and see my family. I wish I could go and see my family for literally any other reason than the one that’s brought my parents there now. Part of me wishes I was still in Chicago, because at least that would get me a little closer than I am at the moment.

cleveland architecture

“Buildings on Euclid Avenue.”

My dad grew up in Cleveland and so we used to visit his family every summer when I was young, up until my grandma died when I was about 12. We would always stay at my grandma’s little condo when we went — my sister and I would inevitably find chocolates waiting on our pillows, and we’d chase each other up and down the spiral staircase, running our hands along the metallic floral wallpaper, until our parents told us to stop. The carpet was sort of a shag-style, her furniture was as ornamental as her costume jewelry, and there were always stacks of tabloids sitting in the corner by the couch. Her apartment looked like it came straight out of the sixties, but in a good way.

Cleveland was my introduction to the concept of a basement — something that was missing from most Los Angeles homes. Before this, I had associated basements with two things:  the movies (having grown up in “Hollywood”) and tornadoes (having watched too many movies). A basement was a place where you hid when the world was going to end. My aunt and uncle had a basement in their little house, and I remember being simultaneously fascinated that basements actually existed in real life and terrified that a tornado was suddenly going to strike at any moment.

My cousin taught me what “hard lemon-ade” was in that basement. I think my family might have played a game of Taboo while we were down there one evening, but I might have just imagined the basement part since it clearly had such an impact on me at the time. The game of Taboo definitely happened, basement or no basement, and my uncle has always been famous for his Taboo-isms — namely his use of “the bad fireman!” as a clue to get us to guess “arsonist.” I just gave him a shout out for this in my recent Grand Canyon captions post, actually.

cleveland

“Steel City.”

My uncle was also an incredible artist. As I write this I am looking at his Humphrey Bogart portrait, which is hanging in our living room. My dad told me once that my uncle was taking a spelling test in third grade and he didn’t know how to spell a lot of the words, so he just drew pictures of them instead.

To me, all of these things are Cleveland — the metallic wallpaper, the mysterious basement, the stifled laughter as we all sat around the table and listened to my uncle read us every single one of the directions for Taboo even though we’d already played the game together dozens of times.

Up until he died, my aunt and uncle had a joint Facebook account, and I think they were two of the first people to start commenting on my blog posts and following my travels voluntarily (most of my other family members were forced against their wills). Even though I haven’t seen them in person in years and even though they’ve probably thought that half the things I write on here are ridiculous (as I’m sure most of you do), they’ve always taken the time to read along and tell me how much they enjoy my stories, and they even posted a picture of my teal shoes for me right after I wrote that one post bemoaning the loss of them.

cleveland west side market

“West Side Market.”

When my grandma died it took me a while to realize the enormity of it, the fact that we wouldn’t be going to Cleveland so often anymore. There would be no more metallic wallpaper and no more basement. Right now I feel even further away from Cleveland, which is ironic — I moved back to Los Angeles from Chicago partly to be closer to my family again, but now my family is gathering in the midwest and I’m back out here on the west coast, away from everything.

I imagine that this is what it must feel like to be locked in your basement when a tornado strikes — small and stuck and helpless, but hopeful that the storm will pass.

 

(the artwork in this post comes from the Mason Milani shop on Etsy, and can be purchased here.)

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On Picasso, Malaga, Chronology, and Unpacking

I moved back here a month ago and somehow I’m still not done unpacking. I keep finding books that I shoved into random boxes in an effort to evenly distribute the weight of all my belongings. In the past I’ve been known to shove 70 pounds of books into one or two boxes that no one can actually move, so this time I tried to be more efficient.

Yesterday, in a box that is still currently sitting in my parents’ garage, I found Francoise Gilot’s Life with Picasso – the last book I purchased from my favorite little bookstore in Chicago. Francoise was one of Picasso’s many muses and an artist herself, and this is a book I’ve been meaning to read ever since I first saw it in the gift shop at the Picasso museum in Malaga, Spain two Januarys ago. Still tucked inside the front cover of that book is a postcard I purchased from that museum — one that I meant to send but must have forgotten about.

picasso museum malaga

Malaga’s Picasso museum is one of my favorites and I still often think about it, although I’ve never written about it here. Anyone who’s been reading my blog for a while (or knows me in real life) is aware that art is one of my passions, and it’s one of those things that I won’t stop talking about if you even so much as bring it up for a second. We all have that with something, and I think we all realize that it can be annoying. I’ve tried not to do too many art museum posts here on the blog because I know it isn’t everyone’s thing, and I know that there’s only so much you can say about art museums in a blog post without becoming repetitive.

It’s easy to be brief about the one in Malaga because there was really only one thing I loved about it: the rooms are arranged thematically rather than chronologically. The themes are based off Picasso’s philosophies throughout his life, each one depicted by a single quote on the wall as you enter each room. Most of the quotes are brief excerpts from things he wrote — essays or notes — but a few of them come from interviews. As a result, each room contains paintings, drawings, or sculptures from any given era of Picasso’s career — and his career was long – so the artwork in one room can span anywhere from twenty to seventy years.

I have several of these quotes written down on my museum gift shop receipt and the little brochure they give you at the entrance. I am such a Picasso fangirl that it’s almost embarrassing. I’ll probably write a whole blog post about him at some point in the near future, so brace yourselves for that. In the meantime, here are a few of the quotes I loved so much that I stood in the middle of an impatient, irritated crowd as I wrote them on the back of a receipt and blocked everyone else’s view for a whole five minutes:

“A good painting — any painting! — ought to bristle with razor blades.”

jacqueline seated picasso

“Jacqueline Seated”

“When I paint, my object is to show what I have found and not what I am looking for. In art intentions are not sufficient and, as we say in Spanish, love must be proved by deeds and not by reasons. What one does is what counts and not what one had the intention of doing.”

“They speak of naturalism in opposition to modern painting. I would like to know if anyone has ever seen a natural work of art. Nature and art, being two different things, cannot be the same thing. Through art we express our conception of what nature is not.”

“Academic training in beauty is a sham. [...] Art is not the application of a canon of beauty, but what the instinct and the brain can conceive beyond any canon. When we love a woman we don’t start measuring her limbs.”

picasso museum malaga

The reason that I remember this museum so often and so fondly is simply because of the way it was arranged. It’s a strange sort of time warp to think of any given thing in your life progressing in a non-chronological way — to think of the things you’ve written or painted, the major events you remember the most, and the particular choices you’ve made as things that have all pertained to certain themes rather than as things that have happened one after the other, in this year or that month. It’s fascinating to me that a man who lived for 91 years and created art for most of them could have a painting that he produced when he was 25 correlate almost perfectly with a sculpture he created when he was 75.

I will be turning 25 this June, and I wonder if the things I’ll be writing when I’m 75 (using whatever futuristic galactic contraption has replaced the computer by then) will still relate to the things I’m writing now. I wonder which themes will carry over, or which quotes I’ll still want to write on the walls.

In the meantime, I should probably stop looking up Picasso quotes to put on Pinterest and actually finish unpacking the boxes that are still sitting in my parents’ garage.

1, 2, 3

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Taking a Seven Hundred Minute Breather in Los Angeles

I need a minute. So much has happened already in March that I can’t even believe it’s only about halfway over. I need a minute — or, preferably, about seven hundred of them — to catch my breath.

First of all, I moved. You may have noticed that from my road trip pictures. After living in Chicago for two years, I moved back to Los Angeles (via solo road trip. I have a Cheryl Strayed audiobook to thank for my sanity.). I’m living with my parents in the house where I grew up, and I’ll be working here for a few months to save up some money before I try to move abroad somewhere. I’m hoping to move in July-ish, although we’ll see how the money-saving goes.

durango colorado

One of my favorite stops along my road trip: Durango, Colorado.

And when I say “working,” I mean that I started a new job in the same week I got home. Even though this has been exhausting and somewhat overwhelming at times, I realize that it’s also extremely lucky. I had a friend who was leaving this job around the same time I was going to be heading back this way, and she mentioned to her supervisors that she had a friend who might be a good fit, and that was that! They didn’t even meet me in person before hiring me. Apparently my friend talked me up A LOT to everyone who works at this place, because whenever I introduce myself to someone new they always look really excited and go, “Oh! The famous Jackie!” Clearly, she lied to them.

Anyway, again, this was so, so lucky. If this hadn’t happened, who knows how long I would have had to spend looking for a job. And who knows if I would have found one as flexible or interesting as this one. I work at a photography studio and my official job title is “Creative Academy Director” (added that one to LinkedIn immediately) and basically I run class registrations and work with teachers to design and schedule their classes.

But guys, guess what. I get to take any of the photography classes there for free! Looks like you’ll have to kiss gems like these goodbye pretty soon, sorry:

london parliament

I remember thinking that this wasn’t that bad. I’m not sure what I was using as a comparison.

In addition to this new job, I’m still doing freelance writing for Rail Europe, behind the scenes stuff for Vagabundo (although it’s been a bit quiet there lately while our editor, Brendan, has been hurling his motorbike off African mountains, or something), and also one or two freelance projects every now and then for other websites. Add that to paying this blog some attention every now and then and trying to read the other blogs I love and trying to unpack my Chicago life and fit it into my Los Angeles life and trying to see my friends and eat and hang out with my cat and read books and plan photography classes, and you’ve got me falling asleep at my computer while the Cloud Atlas sextet that some fan put together on YouTube is lulling my cat to sleep next to me.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining. I’m busy, but it’s a good and productive busy. Except that I still need to unpack.

Anyway. A lot of people have been asking what my plans are and what I’m currently doing and I realized I hadn’t really stated any of that anywhere directly on this blog, so I just wanted to give an update and say that I’m busy, I’m tired, but I’m not going to disappear from the Internet. Never doubt my devotion to the Internet. And even though I’ve been reunited with my adorable, sassy, fur-faced little soulmate, I’ll try not to post too many pictures of her on Instagram.

cute cat

“I’m adorable.”

*Just Googled “how many hours is 700 minutes?” because I can’t do math. Turns out a seven hundred minute breather is actually just a good night’s sleep.

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